letters
of 2004
Letter Archive |
Alastair Hendy’s name may not be familiar to many over here but
readers of the Sunday Times who were devastated when his column was
discontinued, are thrilled to find his lively prose, tempting recipes
and evocative photos in the Mail on Sunday You Magazine. He also
writes in a myriad of other magazines and publications. I’m a fan
and even more so since we met at Tasting Australia in Adelaide a
couple of years ago. He and Kevin Gould, two culinary whizz kids were
so kind to me and included me in many of their trips and events even
though I was old enough to be their granny. Alastair is an entirely
self-taught eclectic cook, passionate about food and the quality of
ingredients. He has written for numerous magazines and presented a
20-programme series ‘No Meat Required’ which was screened on Carlton
Food Network. He takes beautiful photographs – he’s an inveterate
traveller spending much of his time in India, South East Asia
(Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia), Sri Lanka, Europe, USA, Central and
South America and North Africa, all of which have influenced his
eclectic cooking style. His latest book ‘Home Cook’ with more than
150 recipes is described as an honest, fuss-free up-to-the-minute
cookery bible that shows you how to magic a proper dinner with one
hand while downing a glass or two with friends with the other. Well I
found lots of really tempting recipes from favourite comfort snacks to
exotic Pad Thai Noodles and White and Dark Chocolate Tira Misu. We
also greatly enjoyed Honey Roast Drumsticks and Sticky Asian Pork and
Herb Salad. Home Cook by Alastair Hendy, published by Headline in
2004.
Delicious
Shrimp pad Thai noodles
300g dried rice stick noodles,
or other rice noodles 5cm white radish or 4 regular radishes,
finely shredded 3 tbsp rice vinegar 2 tbsp castersugar fish
sauce 2 hot red chillies, sliced into rings 500g uncooked tiger
prawns 2 big handfuls beansprouts 3-4 tbsp vegetable oil 3
large eggs 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 shallots, finely
sliced 6 spring onions, cut into short lengths 4 tbsp roasted
peanuts, crushed 1 tsp ground dried chilli or chilli flakes
handfuls of coriander leaves
The secret here, as with all stir-frying, is to have all your
stuff ready for the pan, then it’s a simple process of slinging things
in when you come to cook. First, soak the noodles. Toss the radish
with the rice vinegar in a small bowl, and leave for about 30 minutes,
then lift up from its vinegar bath and put on one side. Stir the
sugar, 2 tbsp of the fish sauce and 1 tbsp water into the vinegar. Pop
the chilli rings into small dipping bowls filled with fish sauce ready
for serving. Now, display everything – including the prawns and
beansprouts – in little piles or in bowls by the hob, ready for the
off. To cook, heat about 1 tbsp oil in your wok and swirl around,
then crack in the eggs and scramble them: once they begin to set, keep
scraping up and jumbling over until they start to gain a little golden
colour, then scrape out into a small bowl. Next, heat 2 tbsp of oil in
the wok and chuck in the garlic. After about 20 seconds, chuck in the
prawns and stir-fry until they turn pink. Throw in the shallots, then
stir in the vinegar mixture and let it bubble up, then tip in the
noodles, vinegared radish, spring onions and peanuts and stir-fry for
about 2 minutes or until the noodles have absorbed the liquid. Chuck
in the beansprouts, sprinkle over the dried chilli, and once more stir
through. Pile on to plates and scatter with coriander. Zing it up by
adding rings of chilli and dribbles of hot fish sauce as you eat.
The Ballymaloe Cookery School
White and dark chocolate
tiramisu
Makes 6 pots or you could put it all in one
dish
2 medium eggs caster sugar 500g mascarpone cheese 250ml
double cream, plus 2 tbsp. 100ml strong, freshly brewed coffee 3
tbsp Kahlua liqueur, or other coffee liqueur 1 packet sponge finger
biscuits 1 tbsp.shelled hazelnuts, roasted and ground 100g white
chocolate, broken into pieces 150g dark bitter chocolate (minimum
70% cocoa solids), broken into pieces
Using a hand whisk, beat
the eggs with 2 tbsp of the sugar until pale, then beat in the
mascarpone and the 2 tbsp. double cream until the mixture is smooth.
Mix the coffee with another 2-3 tsp of sugar and the liqueur, then
dunk each sponge finger briefly into this. Layer the soaked fingers
into the base of each dish or pot, about four per serving. Dribble a
tbsp. more of the coffee mixture over each, sprinkle with hazelnuts,
then spoon the mascarpone on top, gently pushing down to fill any
gaps. Melt the white chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of
simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl is not touching
the water. As soon as it has melted, allow it to cool, just a little.
Meanwhile, beat the double cream until it forms soft peaks, then beat
the white chocolate into the cream. Spoon on top of the mascarpone,
level off and refrigerate until needed. To serve, melt the dark
chocolate (in the same way as the white chocolate), then once cooled a
tad, pour over each serving, and take to the table straightaway.
Delicious.
Sticky Asian Pork and Herb
Salad
3 tbsp unsalted skinned peanuts 500g
free-range pork fillet (or chicken breast) 3 tsp five-spice powder
2 tbsp soft brown sugar 1 tbsp fish sauce 3 tbsp soy sauce 2
sticks lemongrass, trimmed and finely shredded 3 large mild red
chillies, deseeded and roughly chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed
3 shallots, finely chopped 3 tbsp Asian dressing (see recipe) ½
large cos lettuce or other crisp leaves, torn up handful each of
basil, mint and coriander leaves 1 cucumber, peeled, deseeded and
shredded 4 spring onions, finely shredded lengthways 2 tbsp
vegetable or sunflower oil
Scatter the peanuts over a roasting tray, then toast in a
200°C/400°F/Gas 6 over for about 15 minutes, shaking once or twice, or
until evenly brown all over. Then crush them to chunky crumbs. They’ll
keep like this, sealed in a tub, for a good month or more – so do
extra if you make lots of South-East Asian things.
Slice the
meat into 1cm thick sections and toss with the five-spice powder. Then
mix the sugar with the fish sauce, soy sauce, lemongrass, chilli,
garlic and shallot, tip this over the seasoned sliced pork, and stir
through. Leave to marinate for about an hour if you can – although the
results are still damn good if you’re time-poor and have to sling it
straight in the pan. Next, toss the Asian dressing with the torn-up
cos leaves, herbs, cucumber, spring onion and toasted crumbled nuts.
Back to Top Heat the oil in a heavy
frying pan and fry the marinated port without moving for about 1
minute, then turn and fry for another minute, then sling over any
remaining marinade and cook until varnished brown and sticky. To
serve, fold the pork with all its caramelised bits and bobs through
the dressed salad leaves and other ingredients. And dig in.
Asian Dressing
This is
the dressing that turns bland into fantastic. It’s dairy free, oil
free and – not that this ever dictates what I eat – it’s healthy, so a
great one if you’re clocking the calories. It has to be a classic now.
It’s simply what the Vietnamese use as a dipping sauce. Add a handful
of crushed and toasted peanuts on top of any pile of bits and pieces
tossed with this and you’re off. A little goes a long way, so use more
sparingly than, say, a French dressing. And add a drop of oil, if you
prefer. And if you want to use it as a dipping sauce, dilute with 1
tbsp of water.
2 small red bird’s eye chillies (finely sliced)
2 cloves garlic (crushed in a press) 3 tbsp caster sugar 4 tbsp
each of fish sauce, lime juice and rice vinegar
Whisk together all the ingredients (or shake up in a screw-top
jar) until the sugar has dissolved, then leave to stand for about 20
minutes to allow the chilli and garlic to do their thing. Easy.
Foolproof Food
Honey Roast Drumsticks from
‘Home Cook by Alastair Hendy’
This recipe evolves at home
constantly – and every family has their own version. You can add some
grated ginger if you have some.
8 chicken drumsticks or thighs,
skin on or off 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tbsp. runny honey 2
tbsp. soy sauce 1 tbsp roughly chopped rosemary 1 tbsp vegetable
oil
Lay the chicken across a roasting tin, then salt and pepper it.
Next, dribble, spill and sprinkle over the remaining flavourings and
oil, and then jumble the chicken pieces around a bit so they become
well coated. Leave them like this until you’re ready to cook. Jumble
through again just before you roast them. Roast the tray of chicken
in a 220C/ 425F/gas 7 oven for 35 minutes, remembering to turn the
pieces over midway. Then remove the tin from the oven, cover with foil
and leave on one side for 10 minutes, the meat will carry on cooking a
little and will have time to relax and become succulent. I know
they’re only legs but this relaxing time makes all the difference.
Back to Top Hot Tips 4th Annual
Slow Sea Food
Festival at Baltimore – Sunday 30th May on the The Pier in
Baltimore, West Cork. Music all day by the ‘Cheesemakers’, over 20
Irish Producers selling their own food. Buffet using fresh fish caught
at Baltimore and produce from local growers. It coincides with ‘The
Baltimore Wooden Boats Festival’ and ‘David Owen’s Oyster Festival’ –
so lots and lots of reasons to come! Contact Clodagh McKenna on
023-52977 or
clodaghmckenna@eircom.net
Galway Student in a league of his own At
Irish Pork competition
Simon Tracey of Galway-Mayo Institute of Technology cooked the
winning dish for the Irish Pork Competition Final. The aim of the
competition and cookery course, co-ordinated by Bord Bia, The Panel of
Chefs of Ireland, the IAPP and the IFA, is to increase the presence of
Irish pork on menus throughout Ireland and to educate students with
regard to Irish Pork ‘from Farm to Fork’.
Catering students
from 8 IT Colleges nationwide participated in the final of the cookery
competition, in which they cooked their chosen pork dish. Simon, from
Ballinasloe was awarded a certificate, a trophy and a €1,000 cash
prize. He also received sponsorship to the value of €2,000 for a pork
related project to be carried out as part of his college course. All
five finalists received a €250 book voucher and a gold medal. As part
of the training course, students saw how pigs are reared, how a
processing plant operates. They also received a presentation on Bord
Bia’s Pigmeat Quality Assurance Scheme and a presentation on Research
and Development in pig production by Teagasc. One hundred and
twenty students from colleges nationwide were involved in a series of
information open days on pork production and processing.
St Tola Organic Goat Cheeses
– are produced by Siobhan Ni Ghairbhidh at Inagh in Co Clare – Siobhan
was trained by Meg and Derrick Gordon, the original St Tola
Cheesemakers –their commitment is to produce local organic hand
crafted goat cheeses, whose flavours represent the characteristics of
the locality. These cheeses are made on a daily basis and they are
committed to organic farming and traditional cheese-making methods.
They are finding pressure from cheaper processed substitutes and
pressure on price rather than quality. They have ample supplies of the
St Tola range and are listed with all the main wholesalers in Ireland
– they are dependent on like-minded customers who are committed to
quality regional foods, and whom they ask to support them by insisting
on getting St Tola from their cheese wholesaler, or else contact them
directly Tel 065-6836633 Fax 065-6836757
info@st-tola.ie www.st-tola.ie
Course
Schedule 2004
Back
to Top www.cookingisfun.ie
Tel 021-4646785
Ballymaloe Cookery School Shanagarry, Midleton, Co Cork, Ireland Tel: +353 (0)21 4646 785
 Fax:+353 (0)21 4646 909 Email:
enquiries@ballymaloe-cookery-school.ie
|